Printer Maintenance log

 Went about a whole year without doing any serious PM and calibrating on my Ender 3, aside from minor bed level adjustments.  It finally started seeing problems after running 8 hours a day for a whole year, with a week of rest per month when I left town.  Fortunately these are fixable along with most parts of the Ender.

Space between lines - not good!

The first thing I noticed was spaces between lines on the top layer, then failure to extrude.  At first I suspected a clogged nozzle, then I thought the table had somehow shifted away from print head causing thin lines.  I guess it was a combination of both (and I suspect a weakened extruder feed might be the next problem area in a few months).  I attempted to disassemble the print head for cleaning but then the aluminum heat sink broke from the heating block!  There was burnt carbon crud in the nozzle and hotend.  Luckily I had a spare printhead with hot end assembly.  The old Bowden tube was trimmed to it's extreme shortest length from previous maintenance.  Everything had to go.  I also discovered that saving brass print nozzles and cleaning them is a waste of time since you can buy a whole bag of 10 for $15.

Bowden tube should touch the nozzle.

After installing the hot end assembly and leveling the bed, I was getting horrible stringing.  It was from where one layer ended and the printhead moved to the next layer, leaving a trail of residual filament behind.  Settings needed to be re-adjusted.  The first thing the experts say is to modify retraction settings.  I used this guide to help troubleshoot.

Stringing like dog fur.

Modifications made and results:

• Changed extrusion temp from 217c to 208c - no change.
• Reduced print speed from 40 to 35 - no change
• Increased retraction distance incrementally from 5 to 10 - success!
• Retraction speed from 50 to 55 - minor improvement.  It should be noted that this might be too fast and cause the extruder gear to rough it up and cause wear.
• Changed top layers to 2 from 0 (might have been accidently changed at some point?) - no change
• Infill gap overlay from 30% to 70% - very minor improvement.

Troubleshoot by incrementally changing settings.

Helpful troubleshooting links:

All3dP - Fix stringing guide
All3dP - Guide to gaps between lines and other layer problems

Bringing back the 9mm stripper clip (work in progress)

Started out building an MP34 9mm Steyr magazine well.  Ended up going all the way with a stripper clip loader just like on the German MP34.  Will eventually release a Colt/Uzi magazine version for public consumption, the MP34 version is my personal project.

It works but needs a few tweaks.  Used 40 S&W rounds for testing as that's what I had immediately available.

WIP - Functional P08 Luger Magwell... for reasons.

Work-in-progress - Making a P08 Luger magazine well assembly.  Why?  To use P08 Luger magazines, duh!  I want a pistol caliber carbine that uses Luger magazines.  But first, a quick look at my design process.

Directory of old, obsolete files

Close enough to work with.

I usually start out with a reference which I download from some online repository such as Grabcad.  The P08 Luger frame I used may be in spec, but it does not translate directly 1:1 when printed.  I used the magazine body to get a rough shape and worked from there.  All those "p08_magwell_*" represents a test and a subsequent improvement.  It's a slow and tedious process.  I have also played around with a 3d-printed mag-catch but was unsatisfied with the results.  I think one is possible, but it would not be compact - it would have to be some bulky AR-Glock mag style mag catch that sticks out of the side, which would be fine for a carbine design but not a compact pistol.

The current iteration utilizes a regular p08 mag catch and spring.  I don't like the flat spring as you'll see below - it's really finicky.  Actually - one of my previous designs uses a clever (if I do say so myself) install process where I got rid of the flat spring and utilized an AR15 disconnector spring.  You just push the mag-catch deep in, rotate it and let go.  But again, that needs more space for a coil-spring housing and it really gets in the way of the trigger finger.  I guess those German engineers knew what they were doing.

p08_magwell_1_02b - spring housing is off.

Testing new spring housing position.

Added angular cut and some efficiency modifications.

Also added spring channel.

Properly contoured to the p08 Luger - and it is print-efficient.

The angle of the magazine is so extreme that it will not fit in a regular AR15 with a simple adapter block.  The lower itself must be re-designed to fit the magazine.  Eventually I will release the p08 magwell as a stand-alone model, my own custom version of U-Bolt AR15 lower, and a Sten magwell.  My ultimate goal is design a semi-auto MP-18 that utilizes both p08 stick magazines and drum magazines.  I don't think the original MP-18s took the stick mags, but mine will.

Still have lots of work to do.

See also: Glock magazine Sten on Reddit, which kind of inspired me.

Replacement Latch for Black & Decker Power Tool Case

It's a latch.  Pretty exciting, huh.

I found a nice carrying case for a Black & Decker power tool set lying against the dumpster, complete with an un-used power drill, sander and jigsaw!  But they were missing their batteries, so I tossed them.  Besides, I know better than to mess with those cheapo Walmart brand power tools.

The case itself was missing latches and was a little dirty but otherwise looked good.  I quickly measured with calipers, whipped a design in CAD and printed it.  Close match, but not quite.  I only printed a reduced profile of the latch, at about 1/8" width which saved time and material - a 4 minute print job.  It took 5 iterations and testing until I got the design just right and then increased the width to the final size of 1.070"

Latch dimensions:

Rod diameter: 0.155"
Rod to Rod (distance between centers): 1.070"
latch width 1.070"
latch length 1.55"

Had to adjust the round half-hole, the latch-claw,

and distance between those two.

Conveniently, my AR pistol lower and two pistol uppers fit right into the case.  I might print some inserts so that they can rest without wiggling around in there;  maybe use some Velcro straps.  I'd like to be able to store several Sig P250's, some spare slides, magazines and grip modules in there, along with plenty of room for ammo.  This project made me realize that, despite there being more sub-gun and short-rifle owners these days, there are not a lot of laptop-size hard gun cases on the market - at least I don't see anything like that when I visit Academy, Walmart or Cabela's.

You can download it HERE on Thingiverse.

The case with fresh latches

Latch open

Latch closed

Pistols with accessories.

Or maybe a case for my AR pistols.

skARpion vz61 - partitioned prototype - part 2

Finished basic partitioning of VZ61.  Ugly, but there it is.  There are four connecting sidewalls (one on each side, purple, red and teal pieces in the pictures below) which can be printed flat without supports.  The rear buffer (yellow) can be printed on its backside without supports.  I think the front piece can be printed without supports.  Middle piece (green) is complex and definitely needs support and should be printed upright.  The grip piece (blue) should slide in upward and will be pinned in place.

skorpar15_partioned_v0_90c

Untested; not ready for distribution just yet.  Soon, though (this year, sometime).

To do:

• Round out the rear connecting walls a little bit to be aesthetic and add material around screw holes
• Make the rear connecting wall follow the angled contour of the middle piece and mag well area.
• Triggergaurd - a single 3d printable one or an AR15 triggergaurd adapter
• Add pin holes on grip mount
• Add an optional buffer tube adapter
• Alternative versions for an AK grip or my custom MG42-styled grip.

Top view

Part one

WIP: AR + vz61 Skorpion hybrid - "The SkARpion" - part 1

Work in progress for a 3d printable VZ-61 that uses an AR15 FCG and is printed in small sections.  "SkARpion?"  Pretty terrible name, I know.  This design is based on FreeMenDontAsk's design which you can find on DefCad.  It used to be available on GrabCad but I guess it got deleted by moderators.

Initial partitioning.

I personally hate 20+ hour long prints and want to print the pieces in smaller, easier to manage sections.  This way I can tune the receiver to my printer/filament and not have to re-print the entire thing if something is screwy.  Also people with small print beds would hopefully appreciate this.

The front and back pieces should not require any supports.  The middle one will probably need support on the bottom.  The slightly clear green wall is one of the connector pieces that will have holes that will screw all the way through to the other side of the receiver.

Not really high on my list of priorities, but I wanted to show a proof of concept.

Progress report: Magazine walls done.  Walls should not need supports.

Laminated gun parts

This week on Ghetto Gunsmithing - a laminated gun part.  I saw this on ebay.  The seller says it's a Colt, but looks like a homemade replacement for a .22 single action of some sort.  But it is still interesting, nevertheless.  Instead of machining it with a milling machine, the part could be cut out with a jigsaw and welded or screwed together; perhaps the individual sheet is filed down to fit before final lamination.

Builders on weaponsguild have been using the laminated design for gun parts with success already - so if it works, go for it, I say.

Swing-out action, single barrel shotgun

Saw this auction for an odd .410" shotgun barrel on ebay.  It didn't have a hinge point like usual single-shot, break-open weapons, so I was tempted to buy it because of how unusual it is, but I don't really have the time for another project.

The barrel is from a Firearms International model Garcia Bronco, .410".  Sometimes these skeletonized weapons were known as "bicycle guns," because they could be folded up and stored underneath a bicycle's frame.  The barrel rotates like a modern swing-out revolver.  The barrel appears to be held in place to the rotating sleeve assembly by two pins, but there must be more to it than that?  Perhaps it's pressed in or threaded in?  One flaw I could possibly see in this rotating action is that everything seems to be hanging on a relatively thin solid rod which is also used as the axis of rotation - what would happen if that bent?

It's not really as rare as I had thought because people are finding this thing in pawn shops for less than $100.  The simplicity of the action makes this seem like it would be easy to replicate with simple tools.  Gun Parts Corp is also selling parts for the combo gun.  Chiefly, the barrel sleeve and breach block are relevant to my interests.

AR15/1919 hybrid thing

I've been messing around in CAD software and I recreated parts of a Browning 1919 and an AR15.  My idea is to create an unholy union between the two.  Basically it's a heavy-metal receiver shell that you can attach an AR15 upper to and it uses an AR FCG, but it handles like a Browning 1919, complete with spade grips and can be mounted onto an M2/M3 tripod or a standard vehicle mount.  There wouldn't be any real purpose for this, but I'd like to put a FM-9 9mm belt-fed upper on it, or a Fightlite Industries MCR.  Basically the fun of owning a Browning 1919 but with cheap ammo.

A flat-based AR receiver in progress.

Browning 1919-like receiver with an AR15 upper.

The extension below the bottom plate is a protective housing for the AR15 fire control group.  I could have just cut the finger off and avoided that unsightly extension, HOWEVER, I wanted to be able to use off-the-shelf FCG units such as the Fostech Echo Trigger without having to modify it.

photos: Cutaway of a muzzle-loading breech

Saw this on eBay.  A cut-away of the breach-end of a rifle barrel.  It's interesting that the threads do not seem to cut that deep and only go in about 3/4" into the barrel.

Treasures of Round Top Fair (with photos)

Took a trip to Roundtop Fair a few weekends ago, near Lost Pines, Texas.  One of the nation's biggest gathering of vendors for the biggest garage sale/antique show, held bi-anually.  The actual event is held within a 10 mile radius of Roundtop, specifically Warrenton.  You can go to the surrounding towns and they'll have even more groups of vendors selling stuff.

Warrenton is where the biggest gathering of Vendors are located.  In Warrenton, within ten minutes I found a tent with all sorts of guns being sold by a retired gentleman.  He was there with his wife, who I suspect was forcing him to liquidate his collection.  In the center of the tent was a table which held some M1 Garands, 1903 Springfields, M1 Carbines, Krags, Mausers, fancy muzzleloading flinchlocks, a few modern wood-stocked sporting rifles, and a glass case full of overpriced .32 pistols and breaktop revolvers and a few Smith and Wesson revolvers.  There was a singleshot Gewehr 1871 for $200 in good condition that was tempting me, but I knew better than to buy an obscure blackpowder rifle in an obscure caliber that costs $5 a round.  Basically standard Old-Guy weaponry, nothing that interested me.  In the surrounding tables were random antique stuff.  Boxes of skeleton keys, a lone French Berthier bolt missing the bolthead, spurs, pieces of furniture, picture frames, and kitchenware.

Lifesize T-800 statue for $1000
What a deal!

Several umbrella bins on the ground held a bunch of rusted toy rifles and some de-activated guns.  Single shot shotguns, .22 bolt actions of unknown make missing parts, a Spencer carbine with the barrel chopped and a rod welded in the chamber, and a late-war Arisaka Type 99, with it's bright red stock and a stripped bolt duct-taped around the receiver.  It was missing a bunch of parts and the stock had been chopped at the band.  I don't particularly care about Japanese, Italian and French rifles and I promised myself I would never own these guns just because they are chambered in weird, obscure cartridges, and on top of that, I don't like adding more calibers to my collection.  However, I could not go home empty-handed!  I removed the bolt and peaked down the bore.  The chamber was intact and rifling visible.  I asked him how much and he said $20.  I took it.

I should have offered $15, but whatever.  I have a complete spare bolt and a bin of parts at home I could probably partially restore it with, and I have a chopped fore-end from an Enfield that I could hack onto the Arisaka somehow.  I could probably make my money back by selling the extra stripped bolt on ebay, although I probably will spend as much money as a complete Type 99 trying to restore this thing.

I actually ran across two more Arisaka Type 99's at the show.  One was crudely nailed to a 2x6 pine plaque, though otherwise good-looking.  The other was in worse shape than the one I paid for, but complete.

Traveling from Warrenton to Roundtop there are a bunch of tent cities and barns with vendors selling stuff.  Warrenton is a good place to go for random antique junk and I think we spent about three hours just walking through there browsing.  Near the end of Warrenton tent city is Cole's building, with more fancier stuff - real antique furniture, and at least six gun dealers with nice antique rifles, shotguns, muzzleloaders, and other pieces of militaria.  I recommend bringing at least $300 if you're serious about buying something here.

We stopped at a barn near Roundtop, where there was a ton of cowboy stuff.  Holsters, boots, spurs, revolvers, amongst other random junk being sold by women - kitchenware, plates, jewelry, clothing.  Is that sexist?  I can't help it if that's what they were selling!  I spotted a half scale Colt 1851 Navy in .22 cap and ball for $400.  I'd never heard of or seen one and a quick google search doesn't reveal much about it, but I saw something similar being sold at Cabelas in their firearms display room for the same price, so it couldn't have been too rare.

Outside the barn was a man who told us he came all the way from Missouri just to sell stuff there.  He was selling a bunch of surplus ammo cans, crates, wooden dummy rounds from navy guns, green Sea-Bags (I guess army people call them "duffle bags", how odd!), and other stuff.  I spotted an ammo crate for $20 and knew it was a good deal so I took it.  Inside was a short length of thick docking rope and an old antique bubble level.  The wood of the level was moldy, but the bubble level still intact.  I figured that was worth the $20 and the crate could be used to store my ammo.

Next, a few miles up the road at one of the smaller barns/vendor gathering, we spotted a wood box.  Inside was a bunch of mementos, medals, a letter, and newspaper clippings from a Hospital Corpsman Fred L. Martin during World War I.  Interesting I guess.  The box is nice too.

All in all, Roundtop fair is a great place to waste money - highly recommended!  Pics of loot, click to enlarge:

The loot.

Letter from Mr. Martin's employer inquiring
the CO when he'll return for work.

Fred Martin publicizes a letter
to home in the local newspaper.

The Colt 1908 didn't come with it but
 I thought it looked period correct.

Relevant Links:
Roundtop Show Official Website - Everything you need to know about the event.

Photos: Rusty old broomhandle (and a gewehr 88)

Old pictures from 2012 that I never uploaded when I migrated this blog from WordPress.  This was taken after the last post where I foolishly neglected it. It's all cleaned up now. It still shoots and functions fine. Also pictured: A Bulgarian WW2 helmet and a Gewehr 1888 Commission Rifle that I paid 20 bucks from Old Western Scrounger back in 2004.  Photographed on a cheap Kodak pocket cam.

See also:
-The $250 Mauser Broomhandle
-Shooting the Broomhandle with blackpowder.